Guide to photographing UFOs

Here is a collection of tips, ever growing, that I will collect from different sources and add as time goes on. Be sure to keep checking back as the list will grow frequently.

From the CIA

Tips gather from the CIA’s own documents, gathered from FOIA files.

  • Have camera set to infinity.
  • (for older film cameras) Fast film, such as Tri-X, is very good.
  • For moving objects shutter speeds not slower than one hundredth of a second should be used. Shutter and f-stop combination will depend on lighting conditions; dusk, cloudy day, bright sunlight, etc. If your camera does not require such settings, just take pictures.
  • Do not move camera during exposure.
  • Take several pictures of the object; as many as you can. If you can, include some ground in the picture of the UFO.
  • If the object appears to be close to you, a few hundred feet or closer, try to change your location on the ground so that each picture, or few pictures are taken from a different place. A change in position of 40 to 60 feet is good. ( This establishes what is known as a base line and is helpful in technical analysis of your photography. ) If the object appear to be far away, a mile or so, remain where you are and continue taking pictures. A small movement here will not help. However, if you can get into a car and drive 1/2 mile or so and take another series of pictures this will help.
  • After pictures of UFO have been taken, remain where you are: now, slowly turning 360° take overlapping, eye level photography as you turn around. By this technique the surrounding countryside will be photographed. This photography is very valuable for the analysis of the UFO you have just photographed.
  • Your original negative (or original memory card ) is of value. Be sure it is processed with care.
  • If you can, have another negative made from the original. ( or make a copy of your SD card )
  • Any reproductions you have made for technical study and analysis should be made from the original negative and should be printed to show all the picture including the border and even the sprocket holes, if your film has them.
  • Include information on camera – Name of camera, Camera manufacturer, Lens number and other data printed around the lense, What was the focal length of the lens-camera combination you were using?
  • Date pictures were taken
  • Time of day
  • Direction you were facing at the time of photography.
  • Your location at the time of photography (indicate location on map, such as road map, and show direction you were facing when pictures were taken.)
  • The direction of each 360 degree ground orientation picture: ( this can be easily shown on a map or sketch .)
  • Sketch details of area where you were standing when photography was taken; include such things as telephone poles, fence posts, buildings, etc.
  • Where negative was processed and when, or where photos were printed.

Have some tips you would like to share ?

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